A new Ironing Board cover {a tutorial}

We use our iron + ironing board a lot. We mean. A lot. So it's no wonder that after three + years we needed a new one! (We're too embarrassed to show you a picture of the old one. Really. You could hardly tell what it was made of!)

Mommy and Abi got together and in an afternoon whipped up this new ironing board cover. They took step by step pictures. Measurements will depend entirely on your own special ironing board. Ours is old and dips (just a little bit) in the middle, so we needed extra padding. We'll explain more below!

So — are you ready??! 

Ironing Board cover {a tutorial}

1. Choose your fabrics! Fun! Since our ironing board sits by the one red wall in our studio, we wanted to have red in our cover to make our board pop. (Mommy's favorite color choice.)

2. Cut and arrange your patches. This can be one of the most enjoyable parts, so have fun mixing and matching your favorite pieces! You'll want it to be 6" to 8" bigger than your ironing board (so that you have several inches left-over on all sides of your board).

What you'll Need:


Putting it Together!

1. Layer sheet, batting, and patched top. Use large safety pins to pin it together.

2. Sew through all layers. We chose one of our favorite (and sturdy) stitches on Mommy's machine.

3. Lay your ironing board face down on top of your Insul-Fleece. Use a permanant marker to draw the shape of your board onto the fleece. (NOTE! if your board is not like ours (dipped), than you are more than welcome to skip the batting when your quilting your cover. Use the Insul-Fleece in place of the batting. We're also hoping that once we wear this cover out we can replace it and the insul-fleece will still be good).

4. Our Insul-Fleece was shorter than our board, so we pieced it.

(Continuing) 4. Pieced.

5. Cut out the board shape and lay the Insul-Fleece right on the board!

6. Lay your ironing board face down on top of your patched top and prepare to cut around the board shape.  Be careful to leave several extra inches all the way around the board!!!! Do a finishing stitch (we did a zigzag stitch) around the edge of your cover after you've cut out the board shape.

7. Working from the top of your cover and at the middle back-end, fold back a little end of the raw end of the extra wide double fold bias tape. Sew on at 1/4".

(Showing) 7. See?

8. Finish sewing on the bias tape just like you started. Do not overlap the pieces, but only meet them up together.

9. Fold the bias tape completely over to the back. Stitch in place.

10. Use a large safety pin to run your 1/4" elastic through your "casing". We cut approximantly 122" of elastic because this was the measurement around the under side of our ironing board.  We ended up cutting plenty of elastic off, but we want you to have plenty too. Put your smashingly adorable cover onto your board and pull and tug, working the gathers to fit around your board. After your elastic is just perfect, knot and knot your elastic ends. Cut off extra elastic. (And save the rest of another project!)

11. Grab your Scotch Gard and head outside! Follow the instructions on the bottle. (We gave ours plenty of spray-layers.)

(continued) 11. Cute dog not required. (But helpful.)

And your ironing board cover is finished!!!!!

Let us know what you think!  And happy ironing.

xoxo  Kristie & Abi (for all)

Circus Laundry Bags! {a tutorial}


With vacations, camping, and all the running around that summer happily brings, what could be more useful (and helpful) than a good laundry bag??  That's what we thought!  So we're bringing you the Circus laundry bags – in two sizes!! (Because getting ready for and going on vacation around here is just that: a three ring circus!)

Circus Laundry Bags

Note to sewist:::  the pictures shown during construction were taken when we made the big size. However, both laundry bags have the exact same directions. Yippee!

size Big

-a string of crochet thread or yarn 23'' long

-1 1/4 yd for base

-23'' x 38'' for fabric tunnel

-casing 4'' x 38 1/2''

-drawstring 2'' x 2, 45"

-washable marker

size Small

-a string of crochet thread or yarn 19 1/4'' long

-1 yd for base

-18'' x 27 1/4" for tunnel

-casing 4" x 27 3/4"

-drawstring 2" x 1 1/2, 45"

-washable marker

Let's sew up your Circus laundry bags!


1. Take your piece of yarn and knot it to the washable marker.


2. Put your marker at one end of your folded fabric and lightly (but tightly) hold your thread down while you draw your half circle.


3. Cut your circle out! Set aside.


4. Right sides together, sew your tunnel down side the shorter side. Serge for extra strength. (Who doesn't stuff a laundry bag?!)


5. Run a gathering stitch around your circle. Divide your circle and tunnel in fourths.


6. Right sides together, pin your circle to your tunnel.


7. Gather your circle to fit your tunnel. Pin like crazy!


8. Serge at 5/8''. Trim off excess. (if you have excess!)


9. Turn right side out! Even though it's looking like a circus tent right now, I promise; it'll be a laundry bag in the next 5 minutes!


10. Take your 4'' casing strip and iron the ends up at 1/4".


11. Fold over again and sew.


12. Press raw edges in to meet in the middle.


13. This is not a must, but I suggest serging the top of your unfinished tunnel. This helps prevent fraying.


14. Sandwich the raw edge of your tunnel in your casing.



15. Sew your casing down at lower edge. Make sure that you caught all of the casing on the wrong side of your bag.


16. Take your drawstring strips of fabric and sew two short ends together. Press raw edges in to meet in the middle.


17. Fold the end in before you fold it in half and sew down the side.


18. Sew down the side.


19. Fold the edge at the bottom in before you sew to the end.


20. Grab a bodkin or a large safety pin and pull your drawstring through your casing.


21. Knot the ends of your drawstrings for a finishing touch.

Let the games begin!




love, Abi

an Artwork bag {a tutorial}


Here's a fun little tutorial for you patching loving people!  A super quick and fun bag that is really easy-peasy to make! It would be perfect to carry your favorite patterns and little tid-bits to sewing classes too. Have fun!


Artwork Bag

what you'll need:

-a patchy piece 24 3/4'' x 10 1/2'' (try using our happily packed scrap bags!)

-2 pieces of fabric for your lining 10 1/2'' x 12 3/4''

-2 pieces of fabric for your handles 21 1/2'' x 4''

-2 pieces of Pellon fusible interfacing for handles 21 1/2'' x 4''


putting your Artwork bag together:


1. Patch. Patch to please your eye. Patch your special art.


2. Fold your artwork over onto itself. Pin sides and sew at 1/4''.


3. Clip corners and…


4. … turn right side out. Carefully poke out corners and set aside.


5. Iron on fusbile interfacing to wrong side of handles. Iron the long sides of your handles in to meet in the middle.


6. Fold over so that the raw edges are hidden and pin down the open side.


7. Sew down both sides at 1/8''.


8. Pin handle 2'' from the side seam of your bag.


9. Repeat with the other side of your bag and handle. Make sure that your handles aren't twisted.


10. Put your lining pieces right sides together. Pin the sides and bottom. Leave an almost 3 1/2" opening in the bottom of your bag. Sew sides at 1/2'' and bottom at 5/8''.


11. Clip corners and trim bottom of bag.


12. Put outside bag inside lining, right sides together.


13. Pin the lining and outside bag together around the "mouth". Sew at 5/8''.


14. Trim excess fabric around "mouth" of bag.


15. Pull outside bag through opening that you left in the bottom of the lining.



16. Pin and sew lining opening closed. Push lining into the outside bag.



17. Topstitch around the "mouth" of your bag at 1/4''.

and ta-da!




love, Abi

a letter to open {a pillow tutorial}


I got carried away when I saw Achaia embroidering (and Nan, and Abiah, and Mommy….).  I had to do it too.  I decided to use osnaberg as my pillow base, stitching on it to my hearts content. Now, for a fun tutorial for my all-time-favorite way to make pillows and my first-ever-to-make-kind of pillow. Lovingly called (by us anyway) the envelope pillow.

A Quick Tutorial for the Envelope Pillow

What you'll need:

-fabric for the front of your pillow, but don't forget to add seam allowance. (Whatever size you like. I decided to go with a size that would fit a pillow form that we had in our closet, just because I couldn't wait.)

-fabric for the back x 2.  I needed two 17 1/2'' pieces of 45'' fabric. (I couldn't resist using one of my favorite pieces from our friend, Jennifer Paganelli's collection, Girls World Vibe. It looks amazing with my favorite Va Va Bloom Vera Bradley blanket too. Yay!)

-pillow form to fit your size of pillow top … Don't look any further than these fantastic pillow forms from PillowCubes (by the way – how cute is that name?!) Run go check out their site and feel free to use the coupon code MarieMadeline10 to get 10% off your order!

And the usual items: sewing machine, thread, and scissors.

Let's get started!

1. Choose your fabric. (Probably my favorite part.)

2. When you lay the pillow top on your backing, you should have at least 1'' extra on each side. Don't forget to x 2 your backing.

3. With the folds in, overlap about 6".

4. Lay your pillow front face down onto your over-lapped pillow back.

5. Sew around all four sides of your pillow front using 1/4'' seam allowance. Once you're back where you started, make sure your pillow back is not caught in any places.  If everything is perfect, cut off the excess backing, using your pillow front as your guide.


IMG_6186 IMG_6187

6. Turn your pillow right side out. Open up your "envelope" and stuff your pillow form inside. Adjust till it looks just right. Oh joy!!!




Your pillow is finished!

Oh. My Goodness. My embroidery skills??? After seeing Kay and Nanny at work, I think mine must look a little bit silly. But I love it anyway. Probably one of my favorite letters I've ever sent.

xoxoxo Abi

Gina Up-Do Tutorial


Oh dear.  We are so sorry that it is now January AND we promised this tutorial last April.  Good grief… that's terrible. 

Abiah made this style "up" for me when I was going to be showing you all my Gina dress (pictures found here and instructions for making your own here).  The dress is still an all-time favorite — in fact, Abiah and I have an idea for a Gina variation that we hope to work on soon! — and I love the hairstyle too. 
So without further gabbing, here's the Gina Up-Do Tutorial!

Gina Up-Do


1. Brush out your hair (I washed my hair the night before and slept with it braided.  Perfectly straight isn't necessary.)  Also, my hair's probably what you would call 'mid-length' (though I'm growing it out a bit longer!), so it should work for several hair lengths.

2. Roll your entire head in hot rollers.  We use these by Conair, and they are wonderful!


3. After your curlers have set for about 30 minutes, take out carefully (we start at the bottom), trying not to destroy the curl.


4. Part your hair in desired place (not all the way down the back of your head).  I typically part mine slightly off center.


5. Run fingers lightly through hair, just enough to separate the curl. Starting on the right side, begin twisting a 1 1/2" to 2" portion of curled hair toward head and secure with bobby pins (it's okay if it at first looks like a balled-up jumble.)


6. Now, working on the left side, twist up hair and begin in same way as Step 5.


7. You now have both sides up (left photo).  Start pinning up the middle sections in the same manner as sides.  Abiah did about 4 in the middle.


8. Continue pinning until all hair is up and secure.  Keep adding bobby pins if necessary (better safe than sorry)!


9. Spray with hairspray.  We don't recommend using hair spray every day, but it's definitely necessary with this sort of style.






Now go make yourself a cute dress and sport your Gina Up-Do!!

Much love,

xox Achaia & Abiah

Petticoat Junction! {a tutorial}


Here it is at last!!  The tutorial for this fun tulle petticoat.  The nice thing about this project is the fact that it's pretty quick to whip up.  Because, you see, it's one of those lovely things that's really better when done quite imperfectly. So let's get started!

Petticoat Junction!

What you will need…
-a soft cotton for the slip, like voile or batiste (yardage will depend on the size of your slip – you can use the measurements figured in the first few steps to decide)
-½” elastic (based on waist measurement)
-lots of tulle, in two coordinating colors (approximately 3 ¼ yds. of each – you can use much more if you'd like your petticoat to be really, really full)

First, we’ll take a few measurements to create a custom slip – then we’ll add the layers of tulle to the lower edge for a fun, fluffy petticoat. But of course, feel free to use these easy instructions to make everyday slips, too. Or add a long piece of lace to the hem in place of tulle for a vintage feel. Please read through all the instructions before getting started!

To find measurement A:
1. Measure fullest part around body (usually hipline)
2. Add 10” to this measurement
3. Divide this number in half
For example – if your little girl’s hip measurement is 28”, you’d add 10” for step 2, making it 38”. And dividing that in half gives you measurement A: 18”.

To find measurement B:
1. Measure from waist down to hem of skirt
2. Subtract 3” from this measurement
For example – skirt length is 23 ½”, making measurement B 20 ½”.

Step 1
Stitch slip front to back at side seams, using ½” seam allowance. Finish seams using a zigzag or serge stitch. (French seams are also an excellent option for this step.)
Step 2
Hem lower edge of slip by pressing raw edge under 5/8”, then tucking in the raw edge to meet the crease. Stitch close to folded edge.
Step 3
Make casing for elastic in top edge of slip. Press upper raw edge under 7/8”. Turn raw edge under to form a 5/8” casing. Press again. Stitch close to lower folded edge leaving a small 2” gap for inserting elastic. (We’ll insert elastic last.)
Casing Casing2
Step 4
From hem of slip, measure up 1 ½”. Mark all the way around the bottom using a soft pencil or water soluble pen (even washable markers work well!). Stitch along this line using a basting stitch. This will mark the tulle ruffle placement. Repeat this step three more times, marking each line 1 ½” above the previous one.  (You may remove markings now, if you prefer.)
Lines Lines2
Step 5
Cut your tulle into 12” strips from selvage to selvage – four strips per ruffle. You should end up with eight 12” strips of each color.
Step 6
Fold strips in half lengthwise and run a large machine stitch ¼” from the folded edge, leaving thread ends free. As you get to the end of your first strip, overlap the second and continue stitching till you’ve added on all four strips of the first ruffle. You should end up with one long “chain” of tulle.
Step 7
Pull gathering stitches on “chain” to create puckers. Line up on right side of slip, with fold of ruffle along first stitching line. Evenly distribute fullness and pin in place, overlapping ends of chain an inch or two at the end. Stitch on top of gathering stitches using a zigzag stitch.
Layer1 Layer1.2
Repeat steps 6 and 7 for remaining three layers of tulle, alternating colors as you go up the slip. We only have four rows of tulle on our petticoat, but there’s really no reason to stop there if you don’t want to! Just have fun with it!
Layer2 Layer3
Step 8
Cut ½” elastic length of waist measurement, minus 1”. Using a bodkin or safety pin, insert elastic through gap left in casing. Overlap ends of elastic and stitch securely (we usually use a zigzag stitch). Try on for size and adjust to fit. Stitch gap in casing closed. Distribute gathers around waistband evenly and stitch in the ditch at side seams. This will prevent your elastic from rolling around on the inside of your waistband.

And there you have it!  Enjoy!
Happy sewing to you~
xo, the Long ladies

hat check.


My pillbox hat.  As I mentioned earlier, yes, I did make it.  It was a lot of fun to put together, and not too complicated or time consuming.  Some of you asked for recommendations on making your own.  Sadly, I didn't take any during-the-process-pictures, so you all will just have to be satisfied with some very rough and sketchy ideas!



When I hatched the idea of making my own hat, I fumbled around on what style.  However, since I'm no milliner, a simple style was very crucial.  When Paps and Nanny were down here visiting, I got this sudden urge to make my hat.  I must have been thinking of Jackie O or something… the pillbox style was calling my name.  So, with lots of help from Nanny, and (naturally) some input from Mom, Apphia, Abigail, and Abiah I started cutting, stitching, hand sewing, & glueing.

I chose an Anna Maria Horner Innocent Crush velveteen from my stash for the main part of the hat, and a coordinating quilting cotton for lining.  I love both little & big prints alike, but I just liked the idea of this larger scale piece, with the main design purposely centered on the crown.  Also, I thought it seemed nice that I could possibly mix and match it with even more of my outfits!IMG_6260


I measured roughly around my head, making sure not to measure too far down, as I wanted my pillbox to stay propped more up on my head.  I took some heavy duty craft interfacing and cut a piece the measurement of my head.  I also messed around a little with it, sticking it on my head, and testing how tall I wanted my hat to be.  I whipped the craft interfacing ends together, so I ended up with a circle — the "sides" of the hat.  I made the crown out of the same craft interfacing, and whipped it to the circular band.  Now I had the bare bones of my hat.  I took a strip of cotton batting and glued it to the sides of the hat, as I wanted a little poof.  I did the same with the crown — In fact, I did that three times, graduating the sizes a little bit (from smaller to larger), so I'd get the desired look.


After that I cut my piece of velveteen into a circle, and did a long machine stitch around the edge.  Wrapping it neatly around the hat, I pulled up the gathering stitches (with a little help!), pinned them in place, and stitched around it by hand.  This is one of those extra things I'm so glad I did.  I love the result of the slight gathers around my pillbox!  To make the lining I simply cut a little-bit-bigger-circle and band, then pressed the raw edges in.  I chose to just glue the lining in, and I'm quite happy with that.  Though, technically I could have used a little more glue.  But, since it's inside the hat I'm not losing any sleep over it!

Viola!  My first millinery experience.  I loved it, and hope to continue to venture out more in the future.  I have this idea swirling in my head for another hat.  It's a bit over-the-top maybe, but it's sooo cute!! We'll see…

Hope this was helpful to any of you aspiring hat makers!  By the way, if you give it a try I'd would LOVE to see the finished product!

xxx Achaia

PS  By the way… Nanny informed me I really needed a hat pin, so I found mine via Etsy.  They have a gazillion to choose from!

the Merry-Christmas skirt. {tutorial}

Christmas.skirt 060 
We dreamed up this fun Christmas-inspired emerson skirt while browsing the special occasion fabrics in our local JoAnn's.  There's something about those floaty, sheer fabrics that demands attention!  At this time of year, anyway.  (But this same technique would work remarkably well next spring, using lace instead.  Can't you imagine this skirt being part of a great flower-girl ensemble, too?)  We can also see adding a velvet ribbon bow or silk flower along the yoke/skirt seam line.  We chose purple as our punchy color, instead of red… because we love purple, and it seemed like a fun thing to do!  And the sequins-y cardigan?  Target.  (Where we also found matching purple tights, with just enough sparkle.)

Christmas.skirt 067

what you'll need…

emerson skirts pattern (we're showing the gathered version here)

– materials listed on back of pattern (basically fabric, thread, and elastic)

– "special occasion" sheer fabric for overlay (slightly less than yardage amount for skirt – be sure to check the washing instructions)

1. Choose your fabrics.  We chose this simple black and white paisley piece for our skirt, along with a slightly gray sheer fabric with black velvet dots.  There's just enough contrast between the two pieces to keep things interesting, but not enough to scream "look at me!"  Cut out your emerson skirt according to directions given in the pattern

2. Cut two more skirt pieces out of the overlay fabric, but shorten the length by 2".

Christmas.skirt 003 Christmas.skirt 001 
3. Complete the yoke as instructed in the emerson skirts pattern (steps 1 & 2).  Stitch the side seams of your skirt and hem it, also according to the emerson instructions for the gathered skirt (steps 3 & 8).  (We'll run our gathering stitch later.)

4. Prepare overlay.  Start off by sewing the side seams in a French seam… with wrong sides together, stitch side seams at 1/4".  Trim off close to stitching.  Turn skirt outside-in (right sides together) and stitch sides seams again at 1/4".  This will neatly enclose your raw edges and keep them from unravelling.

Christmas.skirt 007 Christmas.skirt 009 
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5.Hem overlay with a teensy-tiny hem.  Start by carefully pressing your hem under 5/8".  Stitch right along the crease.  Trim off raw edge close to stitching.  Now, turn the raw edge under again, stitching it down as you go.  (This is much easier than it sounds!)

Christmas.skirt 042 Christmas.skirt 043 
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6. Pin the upper raw edge of your overlay (wrong side of overlay over right side of skirt) to the upper raw edge of your skirt.  Run a large zigzag stitch along edge of skirt directly over a piece of cotton crochet thread, leaving tails at both ends.  Be careful not to catch the crochet thread.  Now, gathering the skirt + overlay as one by pulling the ends of your thread gently, follow step 5 of the emerson instructions and attach your skirt to the yoke.  Press seam towards yoke.

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And, looky here!  This skirt has lots of twirling power.

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Have fun, and stay warm~

lots of love~

xxx, the Long ladies

Ps. Do you think this would work for grown-ups, too?  Because we were just thinking…

put a flower on your tee! {a tutorial}

Red.rose.farm.set 004 
We've been wanting to share this tutorial with all of you ever since Elizabeth Scott's gorgeous Red Rose Farm fabrics made their way into our studio.  Have fun!

Step 1::  Choose your fabrics and tee.  (We would suggest using scraps of fabric for your flower petals.)  Fuse lightweight interfacing onto the wrong side of your scraps.

Flower tee tutorial - step 1 Flower tee tutorial - step 2
Step 2::  Draw a petal shape onto a piece of thin cardboard and cut it out carefully.  Using a soft pencil, trace around your template onto the interfaced side of your petal fabric.  You may have as many petals as you like!  (We made a very simple 7-petal version.)  Cut out your petals.

Flower tee tutorial - step 3 Flower tee tutorial - step 4
Step 3::  Arrange the petals on the front of your tee.  Pin in place.

Flower tee tutorial - step 5 Flower tee tutorial - step 6 
Step 4::  Using coordinating embroidery floss, an embroidery needle, and a blanket stitch - stitch around each petal.  (Enlarge the pictures to see the stitching method!)

Flower tee tutorial - blanket stitch 1 Flower tee tutorial - blanket stitch 2 
Flower tee tutorial - blanket stitch 3 Flower tee tutorial - blanket stitch 4 
Flower tee tutorial - step 10 
Step 5::  Make a yo-yo for your flower center.  Start by cutting out a circle using another coordinating fabric.  (Use the mouth of a large glass or a small bowl to trace out your circle.)  Turn the raw edge of your circle under about 1/4".  Using a long running stitch, stitch along the crease.  Pull stitches up tightly and knot off.  Stitch your yo-yo to the center of your flower.

Flower tee tutorial - yoyo 1 Flower tee tutorial - yoyo 2 
Flower tee tutorial - yoyo 3 Flower tee tutorial - yoyo 4 
Now, pop on a pretty button for your flower center, and make a matching skirt!

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XOXO, the Long ladies

pillowcase fun!

Hello again. Here's the little tutorial for your own patched pillowcase! It's very simple…

First thing… cut a piece of fabric 31 inches long. (Of course your fabric is the standard 45 inches wide.)

Pillowcase fun! 001  Pillowcase fun! 002

Now. Open your piece of fabric up all the way. And don't forget your scraps! (Rather large pieces, we might add!)

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Pillowcase fun! 003 
We used a Yo-yo template to make our circles. If a strip happens to catch your fancy, use it!

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With your main piece of fabric fully opened, start by laying out different sized circles and strips in a manner that's pleasing to you.

Pillowcase fun! 007 
Using a zig-zag stitch, stitch along the sides of your circles, strips or squares.

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Now that you've sewn all your lovelies down, stand back and admire your work!

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Fold it in half, right sides together, once more. Stitch down one short side and the only long side.

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Clip corners. Then do a small hem.

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Turn right side out. YOUR PILLOWCASE IS DONE!!

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We'll try to be back soon. If you like this little tutorial, perhaps you'd like this one as well! Has Spring been keeping you all busy? It has us!

Love, the Long ladies 

the tutorial: decorate your board!

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 Hi all!  Here we are again for the fun tutorial we were telling y'all about.  We've been covering our bulletin boards for a few years now.  We think this makes a regular-old-board great enough to put in bedrooms too!  We decided to punch up our sewing bulletin boards when we were moving the studio, so we did almost all of these at about midnight (remember, Nanny?).  Oh, the fun!

So, now it's your turn to cover a plain bulletin board and make it pop!  Enjoy!  xo~the Long ladies

The Bulletin Board-Covering Tutorial

1. Get a desired piece of fabric that's 3" or 4" larger than your board.  Now cut a piece of batting slightly smaller than your piece of fabric.
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3. Layer board, fabric, and batting together as follows: fabric right side down-batting-board cork side down.

4. Wrap one end of fabric + batting over end of board and at an angle push a straight pin in it. (It's very important to push the pins in at an angle to prevent the pins from sticking in to the right side!)  Stretch fabric on opposite side and repeat same procedure.  Make sure you keep the fabric nice and taut!So st croix + new studio 018 So st croix + new studio 019

5. "Pleat" corner up, making a clean, smooth corner and stick straight pins in.  Repeat with the other corner on the same side and continue "pleating" until you've done all four corners.So st croix + new studio 024

6. Pulling tightly, finish sides same as ends (see step 4).  Remember to push the straight pins in at an angle!  You can also use scissors or another firm instrument to help push pins in– that's what we do!So st croix + new studio 025So st croix + new studio 023

Turn over and admire!  If you want, feel free to leave it plain (even though it's not really plain), or continue with the next steps to add ric rac or ribbons to make "triangles" to slip pictures, etc. in!

7. Measure the short edge of your board and mark that length on the long edge.  Using these measurements, it will be easy for you to decide how far apart you want your ric rac (or ribbon).So st croix + new studio 027

8. Put the ric rac– leaving excess so you can pull it onto the back and put a straight pin in– at an angle from one short corner edge, to the place that you've marked in step 7.  Pull tightly and push a straight pin in the back.  Do the same from the opposite edge.So st croix + new studio 028So st croix + new studio 033   

9. Continue, using the same method as step 8, across your board, making little "squares".  Make sure to measure to allow the ric rac to be spaced evenly.

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10. Stick little decorative head pins (we found our's at JoAnn's) on the "crossed" ric rac marks.  Or you can also hot glue buttons on it. So st croix + new studio 045 

All done!  Now, comes another fun part— stick a bunch of lovely things in your revamped bulletin board!So st croix + new studio 050 So st croix + new studio 082

Here's some more of our bulletin board adventures!

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